Arundel Castle

The Castle and the river Arun

Dave and I headed off to Arundel in the south east of England, it's actually really close to Brighton, but even better was that the last stop on the train line was Bognor Regis.  Now that's what I call a name! And for once it's even spelt exactly like it's written, as opposed to Leicester for example.  Apparently it's an Anglo-Saxon name, the town has been around since 680 AD, perhaps that explains the phonetic nature of it.

Dave with the castle

Anyway we got off the train before that stop, at Arundel, which is said so that you could almost imagine elves living here.  Kind of rhymes with Rivendell.  We were here to do a walk out over the South Downs, but then when we arrived we saw the castle and couldn't say no to a visit.

It was founded by one of William the Conqueror's counsellors, when he became the first Earl of Shrewsbury all the way back in 1067.  There is still the Motte and Bailey in the grounds, much more impressive than the one we saw in the forest in the peaks district.  Though perhaps that one was more atmospheric, being hidden away in a forest.

What I find strange though is that Shrewsbury is miles away from here.  Not only was the first Earl of Shrewsbury stationed here, but the current owners are always the Earl of Norfolk, which is on the other side of London from Arundel.  I don't really get how this whole English feudal system worked, if the landowners were miles away from their land how did they keep the peasants in line?

The view out to the South Downs from the castle

Apparently the Duke of Norfolk is one of the important lords of the land, he actually gets a role in royal ceremonies.  He is in charge of things like coronations and funerals and any other state occasions, as designated by the queen/king.

The garden outside the Fitzalan Chapel

The first owner died without any heirs, so it reverted to Henry I, who then gave it to his second wife, and it has been in their family ever since, which is kind of impressive.  Eventually ending up with the Howards, who perhaps are some of the more famous owners.  One of the Howards who owned this castle was the uncle to both Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, both wives of Henry VIII.

It's a very well preserved castle, it's slightly strange visiting inside though, since the family must still spend some time there, so there are family photos around the place.  Also some of the apartments have been renovated, so it's kind of odd to see modern furniture amongst this ancient castle.  You also weren't allowed to take any photos, which I always dislike.  I think it's so you are more likely to buy their book.

Looking up to the Motte at Arundel

Some interesting points, Queen Victoria stayed here for 3 days, and a whole set of furniture was made for her stay.  Apparently Empress Matilda also stayed here (that's going back a bit), so not sure how much of the actual castle was around when she visited.  There are also Mary Queen of Scot's rosary beads on display here.  She gave these to a wife of one of the Dukes before she was beheaded.  A little gory.  Well that was the story they told you when you visited the castle, but all the other sources seem to say Mary actually carried the beads to the scaffold, so I'm not sure how the wife ended up with them, whether she prised them from Mary's death grip, or whether the executioner did it for her.

A couple of the rooms to look out for whilst you are here are the library, that is such a fantastic room, massively long, all carved mahogany and big armchairs, it really looks like a stereotypical library.  The other one I liked was the chapel inside the castle, it had great stained glass.  There is another chapel on the grounds, because you can never have too many churches I suppose. 

Ancient cork tree in Arundel gardens

I really like the old Motte and Bailey on the grounds, it's linked up with the main castle, you climb some steps to the top of the motte.  It's nice that they didn't destroy it to build more castle, since you would think that would have been quite easy to do.  At the time these were the pinnacle of defensive systems.  The motte is a big mound, upon which the castle was built, whilst the bailey was an enclosed courtyard below the mound.  These mounds have some serious height to them, so with a castle built on top, and a ditch around, they really must have looked intimidating.  These types of castles were still being built in the 13th century.   From the top of the castle on the motte you could see all the way out to the sea.

The castle gardens and the disappointing cathedral

The motte and castle, with goats grazing

As well as the motte (I think the bailey has had the new castle built on it, so that didn't really exist anymore) the gardens were great.  On the grounds there is another chapel, the Fitzalen chapel, which is actually two churches, one for the Dukes, and the other for the townspeople.  What is even stranger is that the chapel in the castle grounds is Catholic, but the one for the townspeople is Anglican.  I'm not sure how frequent that is.  The castle side was vastly more impressive than the half that the plebs in town used.  That seemed kind of falling down, and quite derelict.  Had a good graveyard though, where some of the gravestones looked like they were slowly being swallowed by the earth.

The grounds of the castle had a couple of impressive gardens, one just outside the chapel, still had some roses, though it was quite late in the season, regardless

The picture perfect Arundel castle

of Dave's shorts and t-shirt.  The other one was the Collector Earl's garden.  This is partially a formal garden and partially a kitchen garden, with some serious sunflowers!  There were a couple of weird little buildings dotted here and there, one with the strange crown water fountain.  It's a jet of water shooting straight up, and held aloft by the pressure of the water is a crown.  A bit strange, it seems a popular fountain of the time though.  I think one of Ludwig II's castles in Bavaria had the exact same fountain.  There was also a "living" room, in that it was covered in plants inside, or bits of plants, so not really living, in the sense that the plants had all died.  So it had a rather depressing dessicated, brown colour.

Strange "living" room - covered in dead moss

Also in the garden were ancient cork and ginkgo trees, I've never seen such an old cork tree.  There is a small cork plantation in Canberra (I'm not sure why or how), and it was about the only thing that survived the bush fires, all the pines were completely incinerated.  It is actually thought that the cork trees evolved their bark to help withstand forest fires, and I guess they showed that to be true.  Apparently these trees can grow to 500 years old, but not normally very high, about 20 metres maximum.  I'm sure this one was taller than 20m though.  I don't know if it has ever been stripped either, so had some serious bark on it.

Across the road from the main garden was a massively impressive looking church, it rivalled Notre Dame in Paris.  It looked about 3 storeys high, I thought we definitely have to go there before we leave.  There's no

Sunken tombstones in the Fitzalan cemetery

way that a church with such an impressive exterior couldn't have something pretty good inside, maybe some stained glass windows, at least a tomb of some famous person, perhaps even a minor princeling.  But you get inside and there's nothing there, it was built in the late 1800's, so doesn't even have history on it's side.  It's just a big empty building, only one stained glass window, and that's it, no tombs, hardly any statues, no mosaic floor, no quire, I've never been so disappointed in a church.  It was all facade and nothing meaty. 

We were thinking we have to plan another visit at some point, if only to do the South Downs walk which we were meant to do, but never got around to.  One other weird thing about Arundel was the number of tea houses, I've never seen so many tea rooms in one village.  It did make it easy to get refreshments after a hard day of castle viewing though.

The enormous sunflowers - I've never seen such big heads - no petals though