Wednesday, 17 December 2014

Day 4 - Ibones de Arriel

Waterfalls along the way
This was probably my favourite day of the whole trip, a loop from Sallent, and into some biiiig mountains. We were really close to France at this point, my phone kept getting the "Welcome to France" texts. If (when?) I come back to the Pyrenees this is definitely where I am heading straight for. It would make a great base for exploring some 3000m peaks. And some great ridge lines.

This was also the toughest day, 23km with 1300m of ascent. It was hard. In the morning we were even thinking of making it tougher. We could have come back a slightly different way which would have given us the chance to scale a 2600m mountain. But it would have made the walk a couple of kms longer and with a lot more ascent. Since this took us probably 10 hours already I was glad that we hadn't added on the extra. This was also the day where it looked most likely to rain. And since at this point we had got complacent with the weather (carrying minimal rain gear or warm gear) I wasn't too keen to be stuck on a 2600m mountain as it was getting dark and raining. Anyway I think 23km is enough for one day.

Pretty mountain lakes
This day also started pretty early. For most of the rest of the week we would start fairly leisurely, maybe at 9:30-10am. Give us a chance for a bit of a sleep in and a nice big breakfast. For such a big day we started at 8am, we had a lift up to the start. This was the first (and only) time I was actually cold during the week. In the shaded valley at 8am at the start of this walk. I mean you start the walk at about 1500m, so not an insignificant height. So in the shade it did get a bit chilly.
The valley we walked up, no longer in shade
This walk followed a creek up into the mountains, until you make a left turn up what is basically a scree slope. And this was a full on scree slope, barely any path, just a bit of paint smeared on some rocks. And oh so steep. It took us about an hour to battle up this section, and it was probably only a km long. Then at the top of this never ending scree there are these beautiful mountain lakes, I guess the Ibones. There were some dams even this high up, I'm not sure why all these rivers are dammed. It seems that in the early 1900's hydroelectric power was discovered and they went a bit crazy with it up in the Pyrenees. Even now something like 12% of all energy in Spain is produced with hydroelectric. Which sounds like a fairly high percentage. I'm not sure why they aren't more into solar given all the sun they seem to receive.

The outdoor chapel with alter and massive cross
The first couple of kilometres of the walk was through a shaded valley, alongside a stream. This was the coolest part of the walk. There was an outdoor chapel in this valley, I'm not sure why it was here or what it signified. I don't think I've ever seen an outdoor chapel before. I guess they do like the outdoors in Spain, so perhaps this way you can have services and yet still enjoy nature.

The scree slope, there is supposedly a path in amongst all that
Yes there is a path somewhere along here.
Once we had made it to the mountain lakes - which were lovely. We stopped for a lunch break, then it was back down almost to the scree slope, but this time we skirt left and head up and over another ridge. Then follow another valley up to another mountain lake. This one was much bigger, it wasn't an Ibon but an Embalse, again no idea what the difference is. This one was also dammed, man they love their dams. It also had a refugio on it, almost halfway round the lake. At this point we didn't really have the energy to walk there. I am curious though to see how Spanish refugios differ from the Swiss ones, because the Swiss ones were incredible. Almost like hotels with hot food and toilets with views. Maybe next time.
The Pyreneean orchids
Some more mountain lakes - the water was so clear
After one last stop here it was then back down the valley. It was amazing how much quicker it was heading out rather than heading in. Perhaps because it was slightly downhill the whole way. And not uncomfortably downhill, just enough that the strides were a little longer than usual.

It was a really long day though, and we didn't return to our hotel until about 6pm or so. Just in time for the first supper of the Spanish evening.

We also got to walk along the GR11 for a bit, Europe has these great walks, long distance walks, through the country. Each country has their own, the GR11 was a bit different to the English long distance walks, in that it felt a bit tougher. Though it was still a good surface and really well marked.

The first lake we reached after the scree slope - the path is around to the left.
Dave with the final mountain lake 
The Embalse and large dam

The refugio in the distance and the embalse

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