Krakow

The market square with huge church on right

We have just got back from an 18 day adventure through central Europe. I would have said Eastern Europe, but when we were there all the locals were very clear we were in central, not eastern, Europe. I don't know if it's an Australian thing, but I never really knew there was a centre in Europe, it was either east or west. I think they don't like to say they are eastern, because that was the countries behind the iron curtain. And I guess those countries now bare little resemblance to what they were like back then. Perhaps it's also because those countries want to be closer to western Europe, and central is closer than eastern.

Anyway it's things like this that made the whole 18 days a massive learning experience. Everyday it was another new thing. I thought I had kind of a handle on history, but then I visited central Europe. There have been a loooot of wars through this region, it feels like almost constantly, so that has really added to the history.

Awesome old street - with great facades

We were in Krakow over Easter, which turned out to be super cold. And also everyone seemed surprisingly religious. I don't think many places would be shut in London just because it was Easter. We are a much less religious society I think. On good Friday, which I would have thought was the more holy day, everything seemed to still be open. But then Saturday, Sunday and Monday most things were closed. On Saturday everyone was walking around with little baskets full of food. It seemed they went to church to get their food blessed and then they ate the food on Sunday. I'd never heard of that Easter tradition. There didn't seem to be as many chocolate easter eggs around either. I don't think you could avoid them in London, but I hardly saw any in Krakow.

I'm not sure if people are actually more religious in Krakow, or if it was because it was Easter, but all the churches were full. No matter what time we visited. Not only that, if Polish people entered they would always kneel down and cross themselves. I never knew what genuflecting was before I saw it in action. I've never seen that in any English church, granted they are always completely empty when I visit, so maybe some people here still genuflect. And it's not as if it was only old people in the churches, it was young people too. English priests would kill to get those demographics.

Another church in Krakow

There were also a lot of churches, it's as if every tourist site was a church. I've never seen so many. It was like if you replaced all the pubs in London with churches that would be Krakow. And there were very few pubs in Krakow. It's almost as if the English worship a different type of God. There would be churches right next door to each other, and they all seemed to be the same faith. It wasn't as if there was a Catholic church next to an Orthodox church, they are pretty much all Catholic. It's hard to describe just how many churches they have.

As a tourist Krakow is a pretty cool city to visit. It has a really big old town, with wonderful facades and cobblestoned streets (and a lot of churches), there is also a castle on a hill. They have done a great job with maintaining the town, and I guess joining the EU has really helped them. Outside the old town is a bit different again, more gritty, but they still have an old Jewish quarter as well as the Jewish ghetto. Polish Jews didn't do so well during the war. It feels a bit like Berlin, if Berlin ever gets too expensive for the artists I feel like Krakow would be a good fit. I'm not too sure about the current government though, maybe they would have to be a bit less right-wing.

Last gate remaining from old walls

Circling the old town is a strip of park, called the Planty, great name! And it does a good job of separating the old town from traffic, you do feel isolated from the modern world once you are passed the Planty.

The market square is really something to see, it is massive, with 3 churches, of course. It dates back to the 1200's and there is this super old church kind of in the middle. This church is 1000 years old, and you actually have to go down steps to get inside, since the ground around it has risen from when it was built. It's a tiny little church inside, though from the outside it looks much bigger. The churches here all seem to have massively thick walls.

The main church is St Mary's, every hour a trumpeter plays from all four corners of the main tower. Each time they play the tune is cut off mid note. This is to commemorate a 13th century trumpeter who was shot in the throat whilst warning of the Mongol invasion. I never knew Mongols made it this far East, crazy!

Monument to the battle against Teutonic knights

There also used to be a commonwealth of Poland and Lithuania, again I never knew this. And the combined army took on and defeated the Teutonic knights in one of the largest battles in medieval Europe. Again I knew nothing about this.  The history you get living in London is so skewed to western Europe (meaning England and France) that you wouldn't think there were any other nations of note, and certainly nothing important happening anywhere else in Europe. This trip really opened my eyes to how western Europe centred my focus has been. The Teutonic knights had the largest castle in the world, which still exists in Malbork in Poland. This sort of stuff was why the trip was kind of overwhelming. Every day you are learning this mind-blowing stuff, you can never "do" Europe, the depth of history and stuff here is just crazy.